Using DNA analysis, researchers have found endangered European eel – in jellied eels and unagi, used in sushi and donburi, in international markets. The fish was found in North America and Asia, despite an EU ban on imports and exports of European eel. The study by the University of Exeter found that 40% of North American unagi samples analyzed contained the endangered species.

“The growing popularity of Japanese cuisine worldwide has caused an increasing demand for freshwater eels,” says Dr. Andrew Griffiths from the University of Exeter.

European eel (Anguilla anguilla) has been on the International unio for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) red list of threatened species since 2018, being critically endangered, with the current population trend of the animal numbers decreasing. 

The species population is at about 5-10% of its former levels, which has sparked a “highly lucrative illegal trade,” according to the study authors. A 2018 report by the Sustainable Eel Group estimated that the market for trafficked European eels could top US$2 billion per year.

With the decimation of global eel populations, California-based Triplebar and Singapore-headquartered Umami Meats are currently working to produce Japanese eel without the need for the fish itself. 

Similarly, Israeli cell-based start-up Forsea netted in October US$5.2 million to scale its cultivated eel. 

Moving the product
The researchers found a “stark mismatch” between the natural habitat and range of eel species and wher they are sold. 

“The complex lifecycle of these eels – which includes migrating from rivers to spawn in the sea – means they cannot be bred at large scale in captivity,” Griffith explains.

“So the illegal trade involves catching young eels in Europe, transporting them to East Asia and growing them in fish farms,” he continues.

More European eel was found on sale in East Asia than in Europe, according to the study. Moreover, more Japanese eels were found in the UK than in East Asia. This also raises eel products by thousands of food miles – how far food travels before reaching the consumer.

“It’s hard to track wher the eels come from, but it’s unlikely that all of those found in the samples came from the small amounts of legally exported European eels from North Africa,” said Kristen Steele, joint first author of the study from the University College London.

“It’s very possible that illegal trading brought these eels into the supply chain,” she highlights.

Europol arrested 49 individuals in 2022 in what they called “a major blow to eels trafficking,” seizing US$2.06 million worth of eels. The police organization says that incidents involving eel trafficking have fallen 50% since 2016. 

Legal eel is not controversy-free
According to the study, most traditional UK eel products – like jellied eels – may be legal but still involve the consumption of critically endangered species. 

“Labels on eel products and menus rarely specify what species they contain, so it’s very difficult for consumers to make ethical and informed choices,” says Amy Goymer, joint first author of the study from the University of Exeter.

“Illegal trade and lack of information for consumers are likely to continue until robust traceability systems and better labeling are introduced across the supply chain,” she underscores. 

The researchers stress that factors such as habitat disturbance (including dams) and climate change further contribute to the decline of eel populations. 

“European eels were once common, ascending our rivers in large numbers and supporting local fisheries, but have undergone striking declines and need active conservation and management,” the authors conclude.