The Mediterranean black truffle, Périgord black truffle (Tuber melanosporum), one of the worlds most expensive ingredients, has been successfully cultivated in the UK for the first time, as climate change threatens its native habitat. 

Researchers from the University of Cambridge and Mycorrhizal Systems Ltd (MSL) have confirmed that a black truffle has been successfully cultivated in the UK for the first time: the farthest north that the species has ever been found. It was grown as part of a program in Monmouthshire, South Wales, run by MSL in collaboration with local farmers. The results of the program, reported in the journal Climate Research, suggest that truffle cultivation may be possible in many parts of the UK. 

After nine years of waiting, the truffle was harvested in March 2017 by a trained dog named Bella. The aromatic fungus was growing within the root system of a Mediterranean oak tree that had been treated to encourage truffle production. Further microscopic and genetic analysis confirmed that Bellas find was indeed a Périgord black truffle.

The black truffle is one of the most expensive delicacies in the world, worth as much as £1,700 (US$2,228) per kilogram. Black truffles are prized for their intense flavor and aroma, but they are difficult and time-consuming to grow and harvest and are normally confined to regions with a Mediterranean climate. In addition, their Mediterranean habitat has been affected by drought due to long-term climate change, and yields are falling while the global demand continues to rise. The truffle industry is projected to be worth £4.5 billion annually in the next 10-20 years. 

Black truffles grow below ground in a symbiotic relationship with the root system of trees in soils with high limestone content. They are found mostly in northern Spain, southern France and northern Italy, wher they are sniffed out by trained dogs or pigs. While they can form naturally, many truffles are cultivated by inoculating oak or hazelnut seedlings with spores and planting them in chalky soils. Even through cultivation, there is no guarantee that truffles will grow. 

“Its a risky investment for farmers – even though humans have been eating truffles for centuries, we know remarkably little about how they grow and how they interact with their host trees,” said paper co-author Professor Ulf Büntgen of Cambridges Department of Geography. “Since the system is underground, we cant see how truffles are affected by different environmental conditions, or even when the best time to water them is. Theres been no science behind it until now, so progress is slow.”

“This is one of the best-flavored truffle species in the world and the potential for the industry is huge,” said Thomas. “We planted the trees just to monitor their survival, but we never thought this Mediterranean species could actually grow in the UK – its an incredibly exciting development.” 

The researchers have attributed the fact that black truffles are able to grow so far outside their native Mediterranean habitat to climate change. “Different species respond to climate change on different scales and at different rates, and you often get an ecological mismatch,” says Büntgen. “For instance, insects can move quickly, while the vegetation they depend on may not. Its possible that truffles are one of these fast-shifting species.” 

“This cultivation has shown that the climatic tolerance of truffles is much broader than previously thought, but its likely that its only possible because of climate change, and some areas of the UK – including the area around Cambridge – are now suitable for the cultivation of this species,” said Thomas. “While truffles are a very valuable crop, together with their host trees, they are also a beneficial component for conservation and biodiversity.” 

The first harvested truffle, which weighed 16 grams, has been preserved for posterity, but in future, the truffles will be distributed to restaurants in the UK